How To Make a Wooden Crate With Vinyl Record Display (2024)

I grew up with parents who love music. Dancing was a favorite pastime in my household, and my mother still has an extensive album collection to this day. If you haven’t noticed, those old-school vinyl records are back in vogue. Now that they’re considered cool again, there’s been some huge growth in LP record player sales. As I looked over my mom’s old albums, I thought it would be cool to figure out a nice way to display them. With that goal in mind, I began to tinker around with how to make a wooden crate with a vinyl record display.

If you’ll allow me to get on my DIY soapbox: I truly believe that once you know how to make a box, you can make a million things. Let’s make it a million and one with this hip and a bit retro wood record crate.

Project Overview

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 16-1/2″w x 16-1/2″h x 17-1/4″d

Step 1

Cut the wood

For this project, I found some 5/8-inch thick walnut wood boards at the lumber yard. If you cannot find any similar boards, you may wish to run 3/4-in. boards through a thickness planner or drum sander to get to 5/8-inch, or simply construct the project using 3/4-inch thick material. Keep in mind the latter will alter some dimensions on the cutting list.

Cut wood slats (A, D), trim pieces (B, C), and album ledger (E) out of the walnut lumber using the table saw and miter saw.

Dan Roberts For Family Handyman

Step 2

Build the front and back panels

Assemble the front and back panels using clamps to hold the five slats (A) tightly together while you nail trim pieces (B) at the top and bottom using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. The trim pieces are essentially holding the panel together, so make sure both ends of all the slats are flush for a tight seam against the trim pieces.

Repeat this process twice to create two panels: one for the front and another panel for the back of the record crate.

Dan Roberts For Family Handyman

Step 3

Build the side panels

Mirror the process in step two to create side panels by tightly squeezing six slats (A) and securing them with the side trim pieces (C).

Again, repeat this process twice to create the two side panels.

Step 4

Run the panels through the drum sander

Run the completed panels through a drum sander to ensure they are flat and the same thickness. I didn’t take much off, maybe 1/32-inch or so. Make sure the last pass on each panel is set at the same thickness. All nails be sunk below the surface of the wood to prevent damaging the sandpaper roll on the drum sander.

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Step 5

Join the panels to create a square

Use 18ga. brad nails and wood glue to join the four sanded panels together to make the sides of the wooden crate. Flush the bottom edges of all four panels as you put them together. The front and back panels will have slats horizontally oriented, and the slats on the side panels will be vertically oriented, making them taller to accommodate space for a handle.

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Step 6

Nail on the bottom

Using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails, install the bottom slats (D) one at a time on the inside along the bottom edge of the crate. Use clamps to help squeeze the slats tightly together as you go.

Dan Roberts For Family Handyman

Step 7

Rout the handles

On each of the vertically oriented side panels, rout a handle opening using a router with a top bearing pattern bit and an acrylic template.

Position the handle placement centered on the acrylic on the panel with the top of your handle 1-1/2-inches down from the top edge. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the handle in the desired position before you start routing. If the template moves while using the router, you can put it back in the exact location. Always use clamps to secure the acrylic template while working with the router. Three points of contact with the clamps will ensure the acrylic template stays put with the router’s vibrations.

Introduce the router bit to the wood through a pre-drilled 5/8-in. hole in the center of the template opening. Slide the bit through the hole and set its depth to ensure the bearing will ride along the template without the cutting blade damaging the template and the cutting edge. It is crucial for safety that the router bit is not in contact with wood when turning the tool on.

After the handle material has been removed, go back and soften the edges using a 1/4-in. round-over bit followed by some 220-grit sandpaper.

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Step 8

Install album ledger

Install the album ledger (E) at the bottom of the front panel with wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. Its purpose is to catch and hold the album when you slide it in behind the vinyl record display plexiglass.

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Step 9

Cut and drill the plexiglass

Cut the plexiglass (F) to the exact outer width of the front panel and the height from the top of the ledger (E) to the top edge of the front panel. Cut it to size on the table saw.

Once it is cut, lay the plexiglass on the front panel and determine where the stand-offs will be positioned. Place the bottom stand-offs one inch up from the bottom of the crate and 3/8 inches in towards the center.

Place the top stand-offs one inch down from the top of the front panels and 3/8 inches in toward the center of the crate. Make sure the screw for the stand-off will go into the side panel and not protrude out the back of the front panel.

To ensure the exact placement of the stand-offs through the plexiglass and into the wood, pre-drill holes in both materials at the same time. Use a small 1/8-inch tapered or plastic drill bit to pierce both. Then, using a 5/16-in. tapered or plastic drill bit, enlarge those pre-drilled holes in the plexiglass to accommodate the top portion of the stand-off.

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Step 10

Fill and oil

Touch up all the nail holes and imperfect seams with wood filler. Allow it to dry, and sand it back with 320-grit paper.

Apply two coats of walnut oil to the entire record crate, rubbing each coat with a cotton rag. Allow the oil to soak in overnight. Sand back any raised grain or fuzz from the rag with 320-grit sandpaper and repeat the process, applying two more coats.

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Step 11

Install the stand-offs and acrylic glass

Unscrew the top portion of the stand-offs and set them aside with their plastic gaskets. Secure the bottom portion of the stand-offs by screwing them into the wood at the previously pre-drilled locations.

Position the plexiglass over the holes of stand-offs. Place plastic gasket under and above the plexiglass – sandwiching the plexiglass between the gaskets and the metal pieces of the stand-offs. Thread the upper portion of the stand-off through the holes in the plexiglass and secure it to the bottom portion.

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Step 12

Install rubber feet

Install rubber feet or cabinet bumpers on the underside of the record crate so it won’t slide or scratch any surfaces it is set on.

Step 13

FAQ

What is the difference between acrylic glass and plexiglass?

Acrylic glass and plexiglass are one in the same— two names for the same material, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). Think of it this way: Plexiglass is a trademarked name, just like Kleenex is to tissue. PMMA is a synthetic resin known for being transparent, lightweight, and durable. Often used as an alternative to glass for lower costs and higher durability. Acrylic Glass is different than polycarbonate.

Does storing records flat-warp them?

The uneven distribution of the weight of the records can cause them to warp. In addition to causing them to warp, flat-storing your records also makes it more difficult to find and access the records you wish to listen to.